11-19

So we have been in Villarrica now for sixteen days. We are getting fat and sloppy with the good life!

Yesterday our new rims arrived. Hurrah, now we can get back in the saddle. Oops – we asked for 36 hole rims and were sent 32 hole rims. We can’t use them on the loaded tandem. Back to square one. Where can we get a useable 36 hole rim? Lots of thought, discussion and hand wringing before we decide to purchase one from around the corner: Taiwan made, and have a local racer lace it up.

This morning the new rims and old wheel were taken to be built. We watched as he took the old wheel apart; I took off the drag brake and then we left to start organizing our gear to leave tomorrow. We picked up the new wheel 1.5 hours later (rim $14/labor $4) and took Bici for a test run. All looks and feels OK!

The last couple of days bikers have come and gone and we have exchanged travel stories and picked each others’ brains about equipment to use, places to go and other how to’s: get in and out of countries such as Burma where you can only fly in, not cross land borders. Unless policies change, we can’t ride across to India as we planned. We learned we must wear helmets in New Zealand and Aussieland or get ticketed. The east coast of Australia can be quite dangerous to ride due to big logging trucks. Bali and the island next door are “do not miss”. No to Java – too much crazy traffic. Watch out what you wear in Muslim countries – no bike clothes, shorts or shirts that are too revealing. China has a new high speed train going to Lhasa or nearby which we could take and ride down to Katmandu and into northern India. Be sure to apply for visas a country or two ahead of time in case you are refused, you can then apply in the next country.

How exciting it has been to exchange and share information with those who have been on the road for years. Thanks to our new bike friends: Peter and Joke, Holland; Martin and Nadine, Germany; Neal, Taiwan; Hili and Andreas, Germany.

1.  Hili & Andreas, Germany 2.  Neil, Taiwan; Peter & Joke, Holland 3.  Martin & Nadine, Germany

 

11-20

Back on the bike after Claudia’s usual good breakfast. We loaded Bici in a light misty rain. Took pictures of Claudia and Beat and they of us and rolled down the road out of “Dodge”. The countryside in the lake region of Chile is forested hills and mountains with a sprinkling of valley farms and villages located on the many lakes, large and small. Green and shades there of are the dominate colors. The spring flowers: iris, lupine, lillies, daisies, roses, geraniums, fuchsia, foxglove, columbine are popping out of flower boxes and gardens everywhere, all adding spice for our eyes and noses.

Over hill and dale, we ride through rain and clouds, the sun breaking through at times causing the pavement to disappear in steam and let us dry off a little, then cloud over and continue with the moisture. The view of the lakes and volcanoes at lakes ends are today hidden from view by low hanging clouds, visibility sometimes just a few hundred yards. The road is paved all the way, so the short, very steep climbs from lake shore up the mountain shoulders to the next lake don’t tax us too much. Lunch was a picnic in a cow pasture, eating empanadas and cheese in a field scattered yellow sun drops.

In Panguipulli we checked out two hostels and found them wanting, so continued our search only to find a wonderful cabaña with full kitchen, two bedrooms, bath, dining/living room and front porch where we sat for our evening glass of wine. After cooking our pasta dinner, reading and watching a little cable TV, we were off to bed.

Our hosts at La Torre Suiza 1.  Beat & Anna 2.  Beat, Claudia, and Judee [But, editorial Gary asks, what's the dog's name?]

 

11-21

The lake region of Chile is green. We are riding the moraine areas populated by large ranches raising cattle, sheep and lumbering pine and eucalyptus. It is so good to be back on the bike despite a few aches and pains still unresolved since the accident. Because of the new, rather unsubstantial wheel, we are afraid to tackle too many unpaved roads, so we have mapped a route with roads of asphalt. One section we came upon was newly repaired and the road worker removed his hat, bowing and inviting us onto the new pavement – a dream road!

1.  lumber mill 2.  asphalt road

The small town where we ended our day, Los Lagos, had several accommodations and we chose the “hotel” where we had a small space next to the bed to enter and to access the bathroom. Art called it a cubi-cabin. We left, locked the door and upon return asked for the key to get back in. Smiles drooped, faces blanched – no keys! The staff had to break in to unlock it. Like Mexico, the fiesta down stairs started at 9pm and lasted until 4am! Breakfast will be a little later than 8:30 since the staff worked late.

This is wood country. Everything is made of wood and with wood fire heat. The weather is coolish, a bit windy with clouds scuttling around. Another beautiful day in paradise.

11-22

Today we rode along the Pan American Highway to move to another section of lakes. The road had a wide, smooth berm and the few trucks were very friendly. We had a wonderful lunch, the owner catering to us even though his beautiful restaurant was full of other customers. After the royal treatment, we boarded Bici and ended our day after many inquiries to find the Osorno Municipal Campground. We are alone. It opens Dec. 1, but the hostess invited us to stay, although she could not offer hot water. It is cool and cloudy – hot water would have been nice, but not as necessary as the irises blooming in the camp yard and the amazing birds loudly cackling and dining in the grass near our tent.

11-24

Yesterday we had a lovely route: roadsides brimming with flowers and flowering trees. Foxglove pushed up between the unfurling fiddleheads from the moist soil. We rode with our bike pointed toward Vulcan Osorno, however, it was so hard to see the volcano through the heavy cloud cover which eventually turned to rain. We slogged on for a couple of hours until the sun made a short appearance and we checked into a hospitable restaurant: The Hexe. The décor was witches and the brew was hot and welcome.
Our day ended at the Hostel Zapato Amarillo (Yellow Boot) near Puerto Octay owned by a Swiss couple who built the several beautiful wooden-sided, grass roofed structures and landscaped the grounds with luxurious plants. We took a brief ride to see Puerto Octay a few kilometers downhill and to pick up a wine to go with the dinner served at the hostel.

Today we loaded up after a superb breakfast and took off under partly cloudy skies. Our route equaled yesterdays in beauty as we began to circle the huge lake. A German cycling couple going the other way stopped to chat a bit. They were about our age. It is so good to see others like ourselves, out here enjoying good health and an adventurous spirit. After 40 km, the road turned to dirt and began to rise and fall, twist and turn. We worked, riding past numerous waterfalls, expansive vistas of the lake, riding between two awesome volcanoes. One section was named the Rio de Lava (River of Lava) changing the scenery from lush dense forest to scrubby shrubs and trees trying to get a foot hold in lava rock that poured out of Volcano Orsono in 1835.

1.  Yellow Boot hostel 2.  First glims of Volcano Orsono 3.  Dirt road through the forest

Tonight we found a great campground in Encenada, a good grocery store for supplies and set up our tent next to a young Swiss couple, also cycling. Everyone comes to Chile’s lake region to cycle!

11-25

We removed the packs from the bike, except for a lunch bag and flew weightless to the Estuario de Reloncavi/fiord (long thin lake open to the sea). This is the beginning of the Caraterra Austral, the pioneer expansion of southern Chile, a track of gravel 800 to 1000 kilometers long. The road today was paved and edged by vividly wild yellow bushes or dense forests and in places by native fuchsias dangling like red bells or ballerinas from the shrub. The sky is crystal, air crisp, volcanoes piercing the horizon.. Oh what a day!

1.  Yellow bushes 2.  Volcano piercing the horizon

We returned early enough to launder clothes and sun bathe before cooking dinner. The campground is right by the lake with nice facilities and only costs $10 US per site. In Chile it is hard to be economical - things are expensive. A lunch or dinner can cost between $12 to $25 for two! Cooking for ourselves trims those costs considerably!

11-26

We took a short excursion to Lagos Todos Los Santos. After 10km on pavement banked by forests and yellow flowering bushes, we entered a national park. The road turned to dirt as we followed a rushing river to the lake. This is the same river, Rio Pertohue that feeds the estuary we visited yesterday. The road runs through volcanic ash from Volcano Osorno for many kilometers and under the peaks of Puntiago and the mountain range bordering Argentina was in sight. We lunched at riverside: the most amazingly clear, aqua marine colored water rushed over volcanic rocks, through pools and shoots the water had cut to make its way to the sea.

1.  Todos Los Santos & Volcano Orsono 2.  Judee by the riverside

 

11-30

We have camped out for the last six nights. Feels good. Stars are bright and waking up to the quacking of the buff-necked ibis’ each morning remind me we are in southern Chile surrounded by forest lakes and crystal clear rivers.

Speaking of rivers, Judee decided that we needed a raft trip: class four rapids, water aqua marine in color splashed by white water. We donned wet suits, helmets, and booties and into the raft with our guide and a Dutch/German couple in front taking the brunt of the waves. Up, down, sideways, paddle forward, stop, paddle hard, stop, back, stop, mixed with high five paddle salutes as we cleared a cataract. Both Judee and I lost our footing and almost tumbled into the churning cold water. Volcanoes both in front and back like inverted snow cones backed by puffy white clouds and clear blue skies. All through the continuous rapids all I could hear over the roar of the water was Judees’ squeals of laughter and joy! Back at base camp we changed back to street clothes and the group shared a glass of wine, cheese, crackers and slices of fruit, then a short 45 minute ride back to town with Peter, our Irish guide regaling us with jokes, stories and information about the country we were traveling through.

The next day we rode over the ridge 20+ km and down into Puerto Montt to catch the Navimag ferry south. We met Cindy and David (Coloradoans) from our previous hostel in Puerto Varas at the ferry at 5pm and walked around town, enjoyed a Chinese dinner, then walked to board the ferry at 8pm. We walked fully loaded Bici into the bowels of the M.N. Puerto Eden where we joined the loaded cars and trucks only to be elevated to an upper deck where Bici was stripped and lashed to an outer railing to take his chances with the weather. We on the other hand, were herded below deck to our tiny cabin with four berths. When we arrived, the cabin was well filled with our berth mates (two Chileans) and all their luggage. What, no room for our gear? You men have taken our berths. It all straightened itself out; gear stored away; and up the stairs to watch the ship navigate out of the harbor surrounded by the twinkling lights of night time Puerto Montt. The air on deck was cold, whipped by winds out of the south, clear skies with a new moon and sprinkled with southern star clusters new to our eyes. Soon the cold got the best of us, so we went below to snuggle into our berths, pull the curtains, read and snore.

1.  Rio Petrohue 2.  Puerto Montt at sunset

Morning; gray overcast and cold, storm clouds racking the mountains along the coast; breaks in the cloud cover, shafts of light silhouetting the layers of dark humps passing before our eyes; mist of rain close down our views of land as we repair to the lounge area to read and discuss places with our fellow passengers; snack on our lunch of crackers, salami, cheese and fruit. We will save the bottle of wine for tonight at our hostel.

Earlier while up on the top deck, we were invited to explore the captain’s bridge and navigation room and learn from the watch officer about our passage through the islands, the weather forecast, and how the shop works. The control area is much larger than an airplane control panel but looks just as imposing with all its equipment. We are surprised at how stable the ship feels: little rocking and rolling even where open seas from the Pacific come through the islands. Judee has had no trouble with sea sickness as in the Galapagos. We are smiling in the sprinkles as we chug through the island channels.

1.  stormy weather 2 & 3.  control room of ferry