Mike & Faye, friends of friends have offered a helping hand, so we are going to join them for the weekend for Art to recuperate.  For the past few days, I have kept myself occupied beaching.  The numerous little coves and beaches are gems lined with great restaurants under palapas.  Most visitors seem to be European, not many Americans and a lot of young people.  I took a four hour boat, snorkeling trip and saw sea turtles, 1000’s of dolphins in a school as far as the eye could see, whales, and wondrous tropical fish tucked in among the rocks.  It is hot, but the breezes on the porch keep us cool as we swing in the hammocks.

	Puerto Angel
boy with turtle
beach cove

Jan 30

Today we rode to Huatulco where we are staying in a villa with two of the dearest people and rescuers: Mike & Faye. Mike came and got us – drove us to their lovely place and Faye fed Art chicken soup!  For two days Art recuperated and then Mike took us back to our posada in Puerto Angel, but he took our big, heavy panniers with him.  So today we rode our 38 miles unencumbered with heavy bags – only our clothes and toiletries!  What fun! 

We arrived at the villa fresh to swim, read, eat and ready ourselves to begin the next leg towards San Cristobal.  Huatulco reminds me of California: of Palos Verdes or a planned community in Orange County: Cota de Caza.  Everything is landscaped, clean, and upscale.  In Puerto Angel, we stayed in a really homey posada with a terrific family, but it was fairly hot in the canyon where the posada was located, the fish co-op behind us cleaned and smoked fish everyday in the afternoon into evening and the still air and heat tended to enhance already ripe odors.  The stiff breeze and air conditioning of the clean, quiet villa was certainly a welcome respite.

It was hard when Art was sick to see the world as a rosy place with the heat and smells.  A terrible thing was our road: it was littered with dead headless puppies.  I took a couple of days before the Mexicans cleaned them up – at least we think the Mexicans did that.  Try to imagine being sick and weak in the environment.  It was hard enough to feel real positive when I was feeling well.  Ah Mexico!!

	the villa at Huataulco
	Mike and Faye
Huatulco coast

Feb 2

We left Huatulco after Mike and Faye fed us a hearty breakfast and waved us goodbye.  It was a beautiful route, ups and downs of seaside mountain range-hills, covered with trees waiting to leaf out with the first rain, but supporting colonies of bromeliads, resplendent with red leaves and multi flower spathes. After 30 miles we stopped for lunch at a roadside place: palapa with hammock and a cook.  We inquired about hotels up the road since the temps were easily in the 90’s and humid.  Art was feeling lousy, not wanting to eat which is not a good sign.  So, just for a test, he stuck out his thumb at a passing pick up truck.  It stopped!!  The man spoke English and was going to Salina Cruz, our destination.  We loaded our gear and ourselves into the truck and took off.

On the 100 km our savior drove us; we climbed quite a lot past rocky hillsides covered with thousands of bromeliads and other exotic plants.  We passed lagoons that appeared to be shrimp or fish hatcheries and a multitude of huge sand dunes.  Absolutely gorgeous country.  I was a bit angry we didn’t ride it, but there was no place to stay along the entire 100 km except to pitch a tent.

Bicycle in truck
Judee in hammock

We got to Salina Cruz with bruised bottoms from the truck ride, got an ok place to stay and went out to see the town.  This area is the isthmus of Mexico – the narrowest place.  The town of Salina Cruz was an important train and sea port as a cargo crossing until the 1940’s when the Panama Canal was opened.  The town has recovered its economic loses by becoming as oil port.  Loads of oil and LP gas trucks pour in and out of this city.

The next day, after a fitful sleep and muggy night, we rode the short 30km distance to Juchitan de Zaragoza.  Still in the Isthmus area, we were able to observe the strong Zapotec culture that exists here.  Many of the women still dress in traditional skirts and tops and almost all of them dress in traditional dress for fiestas, Sundays or special events.  I fell in love with the black velvet massively embroidered with colorful flowers and foliage.  The hem, a deep 12” – 18” is rigidly starched lace with head dresses to match.  I was commenting at breakfast about my delight in these lovely outfits and the waitress invited me to her house to see the one she made for herself.  Art really wanted to move on – not stay a whole day so I could see someone’s dress late that afternoon!

When we arrived in Juchitan we ate and crashed in an air conditioned room for several hours – woke for dinner – returned to sleep all night!  I guess the heat had worn us both out! 

I realized after we got on the road towards Niltepec, that we had not taken one photo of this very special culture: donkey cart taxis, loads of bikes pushing little attached trucks, donkeys, horses and oxen used to transport all sort of things and the traditional dress.  We were told and read of the Zapotec people – the women are very strong.  They own most or many of the business, participate in government, etc.  The Zapotecs of Isthmus also were one of the few cultures historically to resist the Aztecs and some of the Spanish influence: a proud and independent people.

Today we rode 35 miles to Niltepec.  We feel great after all that sleep in air conditioning.  When we opened the door to our room, there was a steam bath outside at 8 AM!  We could have ridden further, but we have no idea what is up ahead and there is a small town, a/c hotels and road-side restaurants.  There is no sense getting sick and tired in this oppressive heat, peddling into a vicious head wind.  Tomorrow we will resume our forward momentum.  Time for another beer and ice cream and move to eat.

2-3-06 

We have ridden another 55 km closer to San Cristobal.  We are stopping where we have accommodations and food.  We will be starting the climb tomorrow and there is nothing for 70 km, so we hope to have reserved some energy for that.  The weather is overcast, so a little cooler, thank goodness.  The vegetation is changing, climbing slightly from the sea level with a mix of Mango trees and other cultivated crops.  We are feeling good, so we have been taking photos today!

We passed an accident on the road.  The remains of a bus and what looked to be two trucks was being scrapped, smoking from the road surface.  Everything was burned to a crisp – almost unrecognizable.  Not like in the states, where auto fires are usually put out rather quickly. 

We pulled into Tapanatepec early, got a hotel room and headed for the most delectable meal we’ve had in a while.  The lovely restaurant, set in an old hacienda around a tropical garden, the hostess served mole enchiladas so light, filled with raisins, chicken and other special treats.  I had chicken smothered in onions and tomatoes with steamed vegetable on the side.  In Mexico, the foods are always the same – it doesn’t matter where you eat – good restaurant, road side stand: the offerings are the same with the same ingredients used.  Mike & Faye stated that they regularly took a Mexican family out to dinner and they always ordered the same things they eat at home.  To find a restaurant that offers creative dishes is VERY rare – and to find one in a small pueblo town is remarkable.  I hope she stays in busness.

	bike taxis
	ox cart